FIND A CHAIR: On Thursday night, designer Cynthia Rowley showcased her latest collection with an interactive musical chairs display at the Villiard Ballroom at Lotte New York Palace. Although the designer opted out of showcasing her fall collection during New York Fashion Week, she still wanted to hold a fun event to reveal a collection of new styles, due out this summer.
“Eighty girls and guys – 80 original looks. It’s almost a whole new collection; the guys are wearing our cardigans and pajamas,” Rowley said of each contestant’s outfit, all dressed by the designer for the show. About 60 of the evening’s looks — ranging from voluminous and playful, girly dresses of varying lengths to tunics over pants and more — were noted as being from her latest collection.
“When everyone’s walking around, it’s like a parade,” Rowley said of the fashionable game, which was followed by a dinner party with floral McQueens Flowers and colorful tiered fake cakes . —EMILY MERCER
WORTH WAITING: At 93, multidimensional artist William Klein is preparing to spend his professional day in the sun this summer with a major retrospective at the International Center of Photography.
New York’s cultural destination will showcase Klein’s fashion, street and other photography, as well as select paintings and films from June 3 through September 12. “William Klein: YES; Photographs Paintings, Films, 1948-2013” will occupy the entire space of the downtown museum.
Born in New York, Klein got his start as a studio assistant for Fernand Léger in Paris in 1948. Trained as a painter, Klein became more widely recognized for his fashion and street photography in the mid-1950s. and returned to it in the 1950s and late 80s. His fashion photos have featured prominently in Vogue and a few books including “Life Is Good and Good for You in New York”. The retrospective will feature black and white images of the Harlem street scene in the 1950s and a snapshot of “Nina and Simone, Piazza di Spagna, Rome, 1958”. There will also be a friendly group image from 2005 that Klein took of Marc Jacobs and his friends.
Klein once told WWD, “I find it satisfying that what I’ve done in photography has had such an influence on how people take pictures, what they look at, and how they look at things. Fashion photography, I don’t care. I did it for the money and for all the opportunities to develop my technical skills.
Klein resided in Paris for most of his life. Some of his early work will be among the more than 200 pieces on display, along with more recent footage from a 2013 Brooklyn shoot.
Klein said: “I come from outside, the rules of photography didn’t interest me. There were things you could do with one camera that you couldn’t do with another medium: grain, contrast, blur, rooster-eye framing, eliminating or exaggerating gray tones, and so on. I thought it would be good to show what is possible, to say that this is as valid a way of using the camera as conventional approaches.
The artist has also made documentary films on the former heavyweight champion Muhammad Ali, the musician “Little Richard” and the Pan-African Festival of Algiers. Klein has also created fictional films about the beauty industry, imperialism, and consumer culture.
Seemingly always aware of the joke he ironically relayed with his work, Klein once told WWD, “You do things for yourself and you do things for other people, and you hope those things coincide. .” — ROMARINE FEITELBERG
DAUGHTER FROM IPANEMA: Brazilian-born Milanese designer Raquel Diniz has Ipanema beach in mind.
For good reason, she has just spent the last few months working on the first flagship of her eponymous brand, which is scheduled to open next July on Via Santo Spirito in Milan, where the floor will pay homage to her homeland. “Instead of putting patterns on the walls, which is tiring, I opted for a pattern on the floor with different stones that winks at Ipanema but not in an obvious way,” she said during of the Parisian presentation of its fall 2022 collection at the Hôtel de Crillon.
Diniz, who is married to fashion investor and Formula 1 mogul Lawrence Stroll, came to Milan to study at Istituto Marangoni, before working for PR maven Noona Smith-Petersen. To ensure she had an appropriate wardrobe to work on events for clients such as Valentino — “where I eventually wanted to work,” the designer said — she put her design skills to good use creating outfits for herself.
“People started asking me where I got those dresses. I sold one, two, three, and then I had to quit the day job and work in my salon,” she recalls.
Made-to-order morphed into a ready-to-wear business in 2016. Showcased twice a year during Milan Fashion Week, the range was quickly picked up by Matchesfashion, Net-a-porter, Harrods, Antonioli and the now-former Marché Montaigne.
Set to continue its expansion, Diniz’s foray into America was cut short when Barney’s folded. And then the pandemic hit, and demand for the kind of flirty, feminine acts that she specializes in plummeted.
The opening of this 750 square foot space feels like a bend has finally been turned, she said. He will offer a high-level summer collection, showcasing his exuberant floral designs and flair for color, including his favourite, the sunny yellow of the ipé amarelo flower native to Brazil. Its pre-autumn and autumn lines, inspired by the graphic lines and contours of the Palazzo Mondadori designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
A new category for the brand is knitwear, which it says suits the “woman who is always on the move – working, traveling, interested in new cultures and new places”, for which it designs. There will also be recycled leather jewelry, created in collaboration with Italian designer Maria Sole Ferragamo.
Working on this first flagship also whetted his appetite for interiors. “It opens up a whole new path for me. I’m in love with building things – maybe a loungewear line,” she reflected. In the meantime, there is an immediate benefit that she looks forward to. “My living room will be a little quieter,” she laughed. —LILY TEMPLETON
POWER TORQUE: Italian couture brand Hebe Studio is branching out with a menswear line, unveiling new designs that blur gender lines for its fall 2022 collection.
Hebe Studio has garnered additional attention by dressing Damiano David, the Italian lead singer of the Maneskïn group which won the Eurovision Song Contest last year. The artist has contributed to an increase in demand for Hebe Studio styles for men.
“With Hebe Studio, we want to empower women,” reads a statement released by the company, “but we also liked the idea that women and men can become complicit in the way they dress, thanks to the genderless costume.”
In addition, “Hebe Studio’s costume enhances female strength and it is a centerpiece that also brings out the androgynous side of every woman. It is definitely an evergreen, perfect for every season and occasion.
The Italian label’s designers presented a collection of bespoke men’s suits in a color palette including pink, turquoise, red, burgundy, orange, beige and green, and shirts in all-over hues. also pop. The suits are made of wool, viscose and satin. The brand also presented a selection of transparent and long-sleeved t-shirts.
Each costume is 100% Made in Italy in the workshop of Hebe Studio, with prices ranging from 900 euros to 2,000 euros. —ALICE MONORCHIO